Durham Coastal Footpath

October 30th 2011

An 11 mile walk from Seaham in the north to Crimdon which we will split into two walks.

Our journey began at Seaham Hall car park where the interpretation panels give the history that dates back to the Anglo Saxon period. One of the oldest churches in the country of that time is here still functioning as a parish church, St Mary the Virgin. There was no time for sight seeing though as we set off along the promenade that overlooks Featherbed rocks. The sea and sky were blue but mist on the horizon blurred the ships that were passing, either out of the Tees or heading into the Tyne. You notice how busy this stretch of sea is as you walk along.

Next comes the Londonderry buildings designed by local man John Dobson, then the harbour, small, quiet and probably a shadow of its former life in the coal producing era.

Climbing gently out of the village we head towards Dawdon, there is nothing left of the pit now and  it was the unusual interpretation boards made out of timber posts that gave the local history in pictures and poetry. 

The path continued hugging the coast. Below us was Blast Beach popular for walking and sea angling very different from the past when ballast was dumped here by merchant ships and the tipping of colliery waste.   

Question what makes this area unique?

Correct answer, it is the only place in Britain where magnesium limestone meets the sea, although some of you may have said it was the scene of “Get Carter”

A short stop was called for to take in the views and a little refreshment. A cup of coffee, cheese scone and triple chocolate brownie set us up for the last leg into Easington.

More by good luck than planning we soon found the bus stop and waited only five minutes before the bus arrived taking us back to Seaham.

Throughout the 20^th century coal mining dominated this area  and spoils from the pits was piled or tipped onto the shore making a very unattractive landscape.

All the pits are gone allowing the natural cleaning action of the sea to restore the hidden beauty.

Most of the coastal footpath has been designated as a site of special scientific interest. The geology creates a soil suitable for a variety of species betony, cowslip, vetch, hart’ tongue fern and the fragrant orchid are in abundance, but not today obviously.

The National Trust maintains a large section of this area and together with their partners have been highly successful in restoring coastal habitats and transforming the landscape.  

 

Penshaw scarecrow trail

For a variety of reasons not much serious walking has been done lately and even today it could only be classed as a stroll around the local village. However in view of effort the local community has put into this weekend it deserves a little publicity.
At the centre of the village is the hall where we purchased our trail guide and raffle tickets for £1 then set of into the heart of Penshaw. First calling into the local Grade 2 listed church All Saints were an angel stood guard! 
Our route then took us past the Greyhorse pub where the local constabulary were in the mist of detaining some unsavoury characters. Wild animals were seen lurking around the trees so we quickened our pace and headed out of the village passing the allotments and onto the main road.
I know we have had a lot of rain recently but I was still surprised to see so much seaweed and sea creatures washed up so far in land!
There were many fine examples of scarecrows along the road which caused the match day traffic heading into Sunderland to slow down and admire, the largest one being outside the tearooms and garden centre.  We crossed over at the roundabout and entered Herrington Counrty Park where 13 more fine scarecrows were to be found.

A very appropriate one of a miner's family and my own personal favourite Dr ,Dolittle and his animals including his "push me pull you".
Leaving the park we crossed over the road going down Penshaw Lane to return our quiz sheet to the village hall and maybe a prize.

Cassop and Quarrinrton

9^th June 2011

A short 5 mile walk starting at Cassop, a small village with a history of quarrying and mining but is now pastoral and agricultural in an elevated position overlooking the Durham countryside. The route was accurately described as easy low level paths, tracks and roads.

Leaving the village we followed the path through the vale along side a pond locally known as the Bogs a product of mining subsidence. The area is a nature reserve filled with flowery grassland and thorny thickets. Orchids, bird’s-eye primrose, blue moor grass, wild thyme and cowslips flourish in the rich magnesium limestone soil.

Unique to this area is the northern brown argus, a butterfly found only in eastern Durham, where it feeds on the abundant common rock-rose, also a fan of magnesium limestone.

Heading along a quiet lane towards the lovely little hamlet of Old Cassop a brown butterfly was spotted, we stood perfectly still until it settled and very obligingly it rested while we took our photographs. It turned out to be a speckled wood brown and not the elusive brown argus!

Walking towards Quarrington Hill we had extensive views across the Durham countryside with the Cheviots, Pennies and North York Moors seen in the distance but we soon dropped down to Cassop and lunch at The Three Horse Shoes.

   

Dipton and Hamsterley Mill

2^nd June 2011

A beautiful summer’s day, warm with clear blue skies could only mean one thing a walk in the country side was called for. A local route quick, easy to get to and ending at a hostelry providing food all day was selected from our Cicerone Guide “Walking in County Durham”

We parked in the centre of the village set off down the main street and turned down a track passing the local allotments then climbing a rickety style entered sloping fields.

The meadows were in full bloom the field on one side carpeted like snow with scentless Mayweed while the other was golden with an underlying hue of ruby from the red clover mixing with the predominant buttercups.

Entering a wooden ravine we passed an unusual farm cottage. Remember the fairy tale of the three pigs?

Well reader I can safely say it is a true story and it has a happy ending. 

The walk continued through a patchwork of fields and mixed woodland going down hill to meet the Derwent Valley Railway Path for a short while before heading up again.

The directions sent us across a “rushy field” but more accurate it was a “boggy field” although we were compensated by seeing numerous early-purple orchids as we squelched our way across. 

With the midday heat increasing entering the dappled shade of Collierley Wood was very welcome. We climbed uphill to Pontop Hall leaving the woods just in time to spot two pairs of kites enjoying the thermals. A lovely ending to our walk.       

Beamish Causey Arch Circular

19^th May 2011

After fighting flu, battling bronchitis, visiting family, a break in Bruges and triumphing over trigeminal neuralgia we are eventually returning to our walks.

Today promised good weather and wanting a gentle outing we agreed on Beamish Causey circular walk a distance of 7 miles and only a short ride from home.

We parked at Eden Place picnic area very close to Beamish Open Air museum, well worth a visit make sure you allow a full day and preferably one with good weather!  http://www.beamish.org.uk 

Our walk skirted the museum boundary and we were soon in fields following the Beamish Burn. The eagle eyed project manager noticed tracks on the bank that may belong to an otter there was also poo nearby! but as neither of us is experts on otter dropping his suspicions could not be confirmed. Never the less the burn was teeming with life, midges, dragon flies, tadpoles, frogs and fish and maybe an otter the full food chain on view.

The woodland was carpeted with late spring and early summer bloom. May blossom  predominated with fading bluebells giving way to dog rose, wood sorrel, geranium, cow parsley and a few more I could not identify.

Even the hedge rows were attractive with a beautiful section in interlaced willow followed by brilliant yellow gorse like a guard of honour as we walked along a dusty track where numerous lady birds lay sunning themselves. Above us a red kite soared, unfortunately a bit too high on a thermal for us to appreciate his plumage.

The track brought us out at Beamish Hall, we had to walk on the minor road for a mile or so which was very quiet until we reach the busy A6076. Crossing here we arrived at the Causey Arch picnic site stopping for coffee and flap jack.

The http://www.tanfield-railway.co.uk passes alongside the picnic site, but only on weekends and bank holidays, a real treat for steam train enthusiast.

Continuing on our way we took the high path along the top of the gorge towards the scenic view of the Causey Arch. While taking this photo opportunity the very observant project manager called for silence, he thought a fox was in the nearby undergrowth, we held our breath and couldn’t believe our eyes when a deer scrambles out of the foliage onto the railway track allowing us a photograph before bounding off.

We followed the line of the woods then crossed the railway track heading up towards the meadow, this was the highest point. We could see Penshaw monument in the distance and a back plume of smoke over Tyneside where an industrial fire that was causing havoc to Byker.

Descending from here we again crossed the A6076 following the way marks past Causey Hall across the burn and into Beamish Woods. Its floor covered as far as the eye could see in wild garlic .

The meandering path woodland path eventually returned us to the car park.     

  

Fenwick to Berwick on Tweed

Monday 21^st March

An overnight stay at a friendly and delightful B&B Well House in Belford provided us with a good traditional cooked breakfast fortifying us for the final stage Fenwick to Berwick upon Tweed 13 miles. We parked just of the main road and set off towards Fenwick Granary across the fields to the East Coast Main Line where we again had to ring for the signalman's permission to cross. “Yes, but be quick” he said, as if we would dawdle when frequently trains thundered past at 100 miles an hour!

Our path then crossed the fields onto Beal sands and the concrete remains of World War 2 coastal defences.

 It was low tide with the Holy Island causeway visible and inviting but crossing the Pilgrims Way was not on the agenda today, we are saving that as part of our next walk!

The sand and dunes in this area are part of Lindisfarne National Nature Reserve a “Ramsar site”, wetlands of international significance, 3,500 hectares of tidal mudflats and salt marshes providing plants and food for migratory and resident birds. There was also evidence of many rabbits but none seen today. Sitting on bleached drift wood we had coffee watching the red shanks and grey plovers enjoying their lugworms and small snails while listening to the constant song of the sky larks which seemed to be accompanying us all day.

It became squelchy underfoot around Beal Point then we joined the golden sands of Cheswick beach which was heavy walking so we took the road to Goswick  golf club (how many is that we’ve passed so far on this walk?) Cocklawnburn beach was our next well deserved stop for lunch this time appreciating the different colours, shapes and textures of the rock strata along the cliffs and waters edge. Pale grey lime stone blocks forming a natural pavement, tilted beds of lime stone on top of sandstones all broken up with golden sand.

Climbing up to the cliff top there were the final superb views of Bamburgh and Lindisfarne behind us and Berwick our destination in front. Walking along the cliff tops our spirits were lifted watching a group of gannets diving like arrows for fish their beauty, elegance and speed is wonderful to observe.

It was 2 mile from here to Spittal and then the urban stretch long and tiring into Berwick. Coastal walk completed!  

  

Belford to Fenwick

Sunday 20^th March

The penultimate day of the Northumberland coastal walk covers Belford to Fenwick 7miles and appropriately today we share part of the route with the St Cuthbert’s way. Parking in the centre of Belford we soon left the village with the coastline behind us heading in land where woodland and farmland replace the seascape.

There was a steady climb rewarded by a stunning panoramic view taking in Bamburgh Castle, the Farne islands and Holy Island then we were quickly brought back to the 21^st century with our guide book instructing us to follow the path to a mobile phone mast! The farm land soon give way to woodland where we disturbed a fox sending it racing into the thicket and reminding me of a poem I studied at school by John Mansfield Reynard’s Last Run which I never enjoyed reading as it had a sad ending.

  Our path brought us to a T junction where we joined St Cuthbert’s Way and St Oswald’s Way and decided on a stop for lunch but not a leisurely one due to the wind chill from the off sea breeze. Again farmland give way to woods this time Kyloe Woods where the original and controversial hedging tree Leylandi was raised, it is also designated a red squirrel reserve although there was no evidence of them today. Very soon the track brought us to a minor road leading into Fenwick village with plenty time to find a bus stop and head back to our B&B at Belford.     

Tuesday 1^st March

Seahouses to Belford 10.5 miles

Itching to be out walking again we decided to have one night away and complete two sections. Accommodation was chosen, phone call made but no one around so a message was left. Still no reply the next day but on checking the weather forecast Monday was unsuitable for walking although the rest of the week was fine. Unfortunately with work commitments Tuesday was the only day for it, meaning an early start driving to Belford for the 9.35 bus to Seahouses. The prospect of a good walk in very favourable conditions compensated for the frustrations of sitting in the slow “rush hour” traffic that congests the Western bypass.

 It was a glorious day bright clear blue sky but more importantly no wind. A decision had to be made immediately; did we follow the original route or take the alternative beach path? The latter won the vote and we were instantly rewarded with wonderful views of the Farne Islands, the eastern most outcrop of the whinsill, and numerous sea birds along the waters edge among them very appropriately our local “Cuddy duck”     (Eiders to everyone else)

 A mile and half out of Seahouses was Monks house as the name suggests this used to belong to Lindsfarne Priory. From here the brothers operated a ferry to their cell on Inner Farne; obviously this was before the days of Billy Sheil!

Soon the massive edifice of Bamburgh Castle appeared above the dunes perched on its dolerite mound but there was no time to visit it or the village made famous by the heroism of Grace Darling, we rounded the dunes and followed the edge of yet another golf course always being wary of the perennial flying balls   

We stopped at Black Rock for a well earned lunch taking in the extensive views over the glistering expanse of Budle Bay, watching the antics of an energetic puppy frolicking in the water and reflecting on the happiness that comes from simple pleasures.

The path continued west along the nature reserve Budle Bay towards Warren Mill well known as a caravan park but in a previous life used to supply flour to the Admiralty.
From her to Belford it was less inspiring although it was unusual having to phone the signalman at Tweedmouth for permission to walk across the Northeastern main railway line. This safely negotiated we then had to cross the busy A1 road before completing our day at Belford. Another good day’s walk!

  

January 26^th 2011

We returned to Craster this morning and parked the car at the quarry. The wind had dropped the sky was blue a grand day for walking as long as you are well wrapped up against the cold. We left the harbour heading along the turf path towards the imposing Dunstanburgh Castle built on an outcrop of the Great Whin Sill; basalt found throughout Northumbria, High Force tumbles over it; Hadrian’s Wall strides along it and the castles of Bamburgh and Dunstanburgh perch on top of it, resulting in no walls on the northern side.

We kept to the edge of the golf course ( there seems to be a lot of these in this area) as directed and soon returned to the coast with some very unusual rock formations that gave way again to the beautiful golden sandy beach and dunes. According to the guide book The Skaith may be difficult to cross at high tide or after rain, fortunately it was low tide !

After this a lovely sheltered spot was found for refreshments were we could enjoy the vista accompanied by the constant song of the sea when the creamy white waves relentlessly pounded the shore. Continuing along Embelton Bay arrived at Low Newton by the sea, well known locally for good food at the local pub and a centre for sailing and wind surfing. This is another area I would like to return and visit the pub (naturally) for a meal then explore the nature reserve, rock pools and  bird hides. As we rounded Newton Point we lost the dramatic view of
Dunstanburgh Castle but were rewarded with the 3 miles of glorious golden beach and a turquoise sea that make up beautiful  Beadnell Bay. Unfortunately our path did not take us into Beadnell so we had no opportunity to see the tiny harbour, famous for being the only west facing harbour on the east coast, the lime kilns and St. Ebba's chapel. Our course went through the caravan park and onto the drab main road, with the clock ticking and a bus to catch our pace had to be stepped up. We arrived at Seahouses with 15 minutes to spare. No celebratory meal this time but a cup of coffee  and corned beef pasty back at the car in Craster.

Northumbrian Coastal Walk