St Oswalds Walk

May 23rd 2012

St Oswald’s walk

This is a 97 mile walk from Lindisfarne (Holy Island), following the Northumberland coast to Warkworth, then going inland and south to end at Heavensfield on Hadrian’s Wall. The route links some of the places associated with Oswald, who was King of Northumbria from 634 until his death.

Oswald, the son of King Aethelfrith of Bernicia, came to rule after spending a period in exile at Iona; after defeating the British ruler Cadwallon at Heavensfield, Oswald brought the two Northumbrian kingdoms of Bernicia and Deira once again under a single ruler, and promoted the spread of Christianity in Northumbria. After eight years of rule, in which he was the most powerful ruler in Britain, Oswald was killed in battle.

Lindisfarne early history is strongly linked with the Bishops Sts Aidan and Cuthbert and there monastic community who produced the illuminated Lindisfarne Gospels. 

Today all that remains are the ruins from the re-founded 11^th century priory.

Also on Lindisfarne is the castle built in 1550 on a dramatic rocky out crop on the south eastern side of the island. It is a compact island in a beautiful dramatic setting with an air of tranquillity and spirituality well worth visiting and exploring in its own right.

Finally after a year waiting we have managed to orchestrate the Pilgrims Way crossing of the causeway, suitable days off work, favourable weather and most importantly correct tide times. We travelled to Holy Island the previous day and booked B&B at The Manor House Hotel http://www.manorhouselindisfarne.com/  ready for a good start next morning.

The morning view out of the bedroom windows was spectacular with the imposing castle set against clear blue skies, small fishing cobbles bobbing on clear seas and the haunting cry of the sea birds.

After a wholesome breakfast of fresh local produce we were keen to start.

The walk commences at the priory and passes through the village follows the main road down to the sands and Chare Ends.

You have the choice of walking along the road or over the causeway sands, which ever way you choose it is only passable when the tide is out, you must ensure you have sufficient time to complete the crossing before setting off.

 

Our route was 3 miles over the sands the way marked by a line of long wooden poles which must be followed closely to avoid any quick sand. The tide was safely out as we surveyed our route. The ground to begin with was firm damp and littered with broken shells so walking bare footed was discounted, and it was very uneven due to   the lugworms that produced highly coiled casts in the sand like miniature mole hills. This favourite bait of fishermen is not allowed to be extracted within 50 metres of the wooden posts and they seem to know this judging by the huge number of casts so we had to walk over a very bumpy surface for a couple of miles.

Although the tide was out there were channels of shallow water to cross resulting in wet feet for me. My sensible companion had donned practical leather boots a much better option especially when the going turned to thick gooey sticky mud about the half way mark.

 We had a refreshing coffee at the car park with an opportunity to dry my feet and put on a lovely pair of dry socks before setting back along the road to the island and collect our car to head home.

Our 3 mile Pilgrims Way crossing was a round trip of 7 miles a great days walk!

Durham Coastal Footpath 2nd leg

15^th March 2012  

A lovely spring day with clear blue skies and the promise of only a gentle breeze was an invitation to dig out the hiking boots, fill the flask with coffee and head down to Easington to complete our Durham Coastal walk. We set off from the car park with a little trepidation as our estimate distance today was 8 miles which was a couple of miles above my comfort zone for this time of year, as the hiking gear has been hibernating for the winter season. Still nothing ventured, nothing gained! 

This section of coast line is unusual in that there are numerous denes and these convolutions not only add extra miles but provide a different landscape with a greater variety of vegetation and wild life. The first one, Foxhole Dene, is the steepest and deepest along this stretch of coast and to me seemed guarded by a sleeping lion, or it could just be my over active imagination. Then followed Warren House Gill, Whiteside Gill, Blackhills Gill, Denemouth and Blue House Gill, each of these providing plenty of cardio vascular workout and with interesting individual features.

One site has been designated an area of scientific interest due to Scandinavian rock deposited by ice sheets many years ago, there were large art instillation along the  path, and the salt marsh at Denemouth  provide a unique environment for the Durham Argus butterfly. The legacy of mining in this area was evident by the mole hills being composed of black coal dust as there is only a shallow depth of soil over the coal shale where trees and shrubs struggle to survive.

We made a stop for lunch at Blackhall reserve with its wonderful view of the magnesium limestone cliffs, caves and stacks which according to local legend was ideal for smugglers.

 The surrounding grass is kept purposely short to encourage skylarks whose song seemed to constantly accompany us today. As part of the land management gorse and thick shrubs had been burnt to allow wildflowers such as red fescue, sea plantain, sea thrift and ?butterbur to re populate. 

Our walk continued along the edge of the coast leading into Crimdon caravan park which is set above wide flat sandy beaches with Hartlepool marina in the distance, once a popular recreational destination for miners and their families in the 1920’s -30’s.

Crimdon Dene marked the end of route where we left the coast headed inland to find a bus to take us back to Easington.

The Durham Heritage Coast is a wonderful location with is beaches, rugged cliffs and imposing headlands well maintained by the National Trust in partnership with the local councils.  

Ouston and Urpeth

Feeling sluggish from the festive excesses we decided a walk was required but as always it was weather dependant. We also had to consider the shorter days and what would be the ideal distance as we had not been walking for a while.

Having a favourable weather forecast we dipped into our Cicerone guide “Walking in County Durham” and found a circular local walk along field and farm tracks with riverside and woodland paths. Only 5 miles it sounded ideal.

Our starting point was a school on the southern edge of Ouston marked by a mushroom sculpture that led us across farm fields towards Urpeth Hall. A bitter wind was blowing that stung our faces but you did feel all the cobwebs were being blown away too.

Leaving the farm buildings we followed the lady bird markers into a wooded valley and followed the River Team downstream into a peaceful meadow where we stopped for coffee and enjoyed the tranquillity despite being only a couple of miles from urban Gateshead.

Have you ever wondered where ladybirds go in winter? Well we found a cluster or “loveliness” of ladybirds attached to a shrub.

 The most common species of ladybird in Britain is the seven-spot ladybird. This bright red ladybird has seven spots and is thought to have inspired the name ladybird: "Lady" referring to the Virgin Mary (Our lady) who in early paintings is seen wearing a red cloak; the seven spots are symbolic of the seven joys and seven sorrows of Mary.

The path took us towards Riding farm then crossing the river (although it was more a small stream at this point) up to Urpeth from there we entered Walter’s Wood with its mature beech trees and soon back to our starting point at the mushrooms.

On our walk today we were accompanied along the woodland paths by a robin, startled a heron by the river, and spotted a weasel and grey squirrel.

  

Durham Coastal Footpath

October 30th 2011

An 11 mile walk from Seaham in the north to Crimdon which we will split into two walks.

Our journey began at Seaham Hall car park where the interpretation panels give the history that dates back to the Anglo Saxon period. One of the oldest churches in the country of that time is here still functioning as a parish church, St Mary the Virgin. There was no time for sight seeing though as we set off along the promenade that overlooks Featherbed rocks. The sea and sky were blue but mist on the horizon blurred the ships that were passing, either out of the Tees or heading into the Tyne. You notice how busy this stretch of sea is as you walk along.

Next comes the Londonderry buildings designed by local man John Dobson, then the harbour, small, quiet and probably a shadow of its former life in the coal producing era.

Climbing gently out of the village we head towards Dawdon, there is nothing left of the pit now and  it was the unusual interpretation boards made out of timber posts that gave the local history in pictures and poetry. 

The path continued hugging the coast. Below us was Blast Beach popular for walking and sea angling very different from the past when ballast was dumped here by merchant ships and the tipping of colliery waste.   

Question what makes this area unique?

Correct answer, it is the only place in Britain where magnesium limestone meets the sea, although some of you may have said it was the scene of “Get Carter”

A short stop was called for to take in the views and a little refreshment. A cup of coffee, cheese scone and triple chocolate brownie set us up for the last leg into Easington.

More by good luck than planning we soon found the bus stop and waited only five minutes before the bus arrived taking us back to Seaham.

Throughout the 20^th century coal mining dominated this area  and spoils from the pits was piled or tipped onto the shore making a very unattractive landscape.

All the pits are gone allowing the natural cleaning action of the sea to restore the hidden beauty.

Most of the coastal footpath has been designated as a site of special scientific interest. The geology creates a soil suitable for a variety of species betony, cowslip, vetch, hart’ tongue fern and the fragrant orchid are in abundance, but not today obviously.

The National Trust maintains a large section of this area and together with their partners have been highly successful in restoring coastal habitats and transforming the landscape.  

 

Penshaw scarecrow trail

For a variety of reasons not much serious walking has been done lately and even today it could only be classed as a stroll around the local village. However in view of effort the local community has put into this weekend it deserves a little publicity.
At the centre of the village is the hall where we purchased our trail guide and raffle tickets for £1 then set of into the heart of Penshaw. First calling into the local Grade 2 listed church All Saints were an angel stood guard! 
Our route then took us past the Greyhorse pub where the local constabulary were in the mist of detaining some unsavoury characters. Wild animals were seen lurking around the trees so we quickened our pace and headed out of the village passing the allotments and onto the main road.
I know we have had a lot of rain recently but I was still surprised to see so much seaweed and sea creatures washed up so far in land!
There were many fine examples of scarecrows along the road which caused the match day traffic heading into Sunderland to slow down and admire, the largest one being outside the tearooms and garden centre.  We crossed over at the roundabout and entered Herrington Counrty Park where 13 more fine scarecrows were to be found.

A very appropriate one of a miner's family and my own personal favourite Dr ,Dolittle and his animals including his "push me pull you".
Leaving the park we crossed over the road going down Penshaw Lane to return our quiz sheet to the village hall and maybe a prize.

Cassop and Quarrinrton

9^th June 2011

A short 5 mile walk starting at Cassop, a small village with a history of quarrying and mining but is now pastoral and agricultural in an elevated position overlooking the Durham countryside. The route was accurately described as easy low level paths, tracks and roads.

Leaving the village we followed the path through the vale along side a pond locally known as the Bogs a product of mining subsidence. The area is a nature reserve filled with flowery grassland and thorny thickets. Orchids, bird’s-eye primrose, blue moor grass, wild thyme and cowslips flourish in the rich magnesium limestone soil.

Unique to this area is the northern brown argus, a butterfly found only in eastern Durham, where it feeds on the abundant common rock-rose, also a fan of magnesium limestone.

Heading along a quiet lane towards the lovely little hamlet of Old Cassop a brown butterfly was spotted, we stood perfectly still until it settled and very obligingly it rested while we took our photographs. It turned out to be a speckled wood brown and not the elusive brown argus!

Walking towards Quarrington Hill we had extensive views across the Durham countryside with the Cheviots, Pennies and North York Moors seen in the distance but we soon dropped down to Cassop and lunch at The Three Horse Shoes.

   

Dipton and Hamsterley Mill

2^nd June 2011

A beautiful summer’s day, warm with clear blue skies could only mean one thing a walk in the country side was called for. A local route quick, easy to get to and ending at a hostelry providing food all day was selected from our Cicerone Guide “Walking in County Durham”

We parked in the centre of the village set off down the main street and turned down a track passing the local allotments then climbing a rickety style entered sloping fields.

The meadows were in full bloom the field on one side carpeted like snow with scentless Mayweed while the other was golden with an underlying hue of ruby from the red clover mixing with the predominant buttercups.

Entering a wooden ravine we passed an unusual farm cottage. Remember the fairy tale of the three pigs?

Well reader I can safely say it is a true story and it has a happy ending. 

The walk continued through a patchwork of fields and mixed woodland going down hill to meet the Derwent Valley Railway Path for a short while before heading up again.

The directions sent us across a “rushy field” but more accurate it was a “boggy field” although we were compensated by seeing numerous early-purple orchids as we squelched our way across. 

With the midday heat increasing entering the dappled shade of Collierley Wood was very welcome. We climbed uphill to Pontop Hall leaving the woods just in time to spot two pairs of kites enjoying the thermals. A lovely ending to our walk.